CubaPLUS Magazine

Almacenes de San José A Journey Through Time

By Kary Chaviano, Photos: José (Tito) Meriño
Almacenes de San José A Journey Through Time

Anyone who visits the Almacenes de San José, located near the Church of San Francisco de Paula on Desamparados Street in Old Havana, can say they are stepping back in time. Among iron beams, concrete, and stonework—materials used in its construction nearly a century and a half ago—today one finds a wide variety of products and works of visual art by different creators, all for the enjoyment of those who make their way here.

almacen-san-jose-cuba-1.jpgInside the spacious building that once served as a warehouse for goods, there are now just over 100 stands where Havana artisans showcase their creations. These works are especially sought after by international visitors who come to explore the Cuban capital.

It is practically impossible to tour Old Havana—a must-see destination for international tourism—without stopping at this site, where countless handcrafted objects are displayed. Visitors often purchase these items to take home as mementos of their journey to the largest island of the Antilles.

Shoes, clothing, jewelry, handbags, fans, kitchen utensils, and many other objects crafted by the skilled hands of artisans are for sale here. Materials vary—many natural, others recycled—but always transformed with creativity and craftsmanship.

Among the most popular crafts for tourists, especially aficionados of the fine art of smoking, are humidors. On this topic, we spoke with Miguel Sánchez Díaz, a member of a family dedicated to this craft.

“We are self-employed workers (TCP) and we make humidors of different sizes. My father produces them in a workshop in Cerro, Havana, and we always showcase them here, though we also take custom orders,” he explained.

Regarding the raw materials, Sánchez noted that most are sourced within the country, though some must be imported to ensure quality standards are met.

almacen-san-jose-cuba-2.jpgContinuing our walk through the warehouse, we came across a stand featuring beautiful handbags and purses made from jute by the brand Solaris, marketed by Zona K’liente (SRL).

Available in different sizes and attractive designs, these items—decorated mostly with Cuban motifs—are highly sought after by tourists for their originality.

A Bit of History
Built in 1885, the Almacenes de San José were considered a modern facility for their time, as the construction technologies used were the most advanced of that era.

Their original purpose was to serve as a storage site for boxed sugar, barrels of rum, rice in casks, socks and sacks, coffee, wax, bricks, steam engines for sugar mills, bales of cotton, raw tobacco, and vats, among other products.

More than a century and a half since its construction, the building still boasts a well-preserved and restored steel structure.

After a renovation process that maintained its original design, the Almacenes de San José were adapted as a center for Havana’s artisans and artists. It reopened in November 2009, much to the delight of both local and international visitors.

As a testament to its past, a plaque embedded in one of the walls still remains. It marks the beginning and completion of the works, and includes the name of the contractor and the supervising architect, the Cuban Adolfo Sáenz Yáñez, who skillfully harmonized the 3,000 tons of ironwork—cast in Belgium at the Cockerill workshops—with concrete and stone.

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