Those who describe the pilgrimage of faithful and penitents, held in Havana, on the eve of Saint Lazarus Day -December 17- as the most massive and popular event known in Cuba for religious reasons, are not mistaken.
The temple of the Catholic saint, syncretized as Babalú Ayé by the Yoruba creed, receives every year, even from vespers, thousands of pilgrims who have fervently prepared and even made a journey very similar to a martyrdom, in order to fulfill a promise made to a deity considered very miraculous.
Hence, the unwavering faith and even adoration that it generates. The last four kilometers before the temple, known as El Rincón, on the outskirts of Havana, must be done on foot, although there are faithful whose self-programmed penances include much longer and tiring routes and in harmful or strenuous conditions, of their own free will, because that is how they conceived it in their offers to the saint.
Arriving at the temple, a huge crowd waits for the chimes that at 12 at night announce that the feast of Lázaro Obispo has arrived, the official by Catholic regulations, whose image has nothing to do with the humble San Lázaro revered from the heart for Cubans: poor, on crutches, starving and with a body full of ulcerations.
But that doesn't matter at this point in the open and rich religiosity of a people that has freely mixed ingredients from African and Hispanic culture.Our San Lázaro, like Babalú Ayé, has skin lacerations and heals all kinds of diseases in the body, also of the musculoskeletal system and motor limitations.
Not only faithful or self-sacrificing payers of promises pay their respects.There are also onlookers, tourists, and the occasional character eager to do a performance or folkloric performance, but they are the least.The authentic faith of the vast majority of those who arrive there cannot be denied.
The procession usually carries donations of money, collected in street alms, destined for the leper colony that subsidizes and attends the Cuban health program.However, it is appreciated with good will.Many of the pilgrims usually wear clothes made of raw jute, enhancing their adherence to the vow of poverty and humility attributed to their holy miracle worker.
And authorities usually accompany the journey of the massive procession, in order to guarantee the order and normality of an event in which, by the way, abundant spirituous libations - be careful, not spiritual - are usually made during the journey.