CubaPLUS Magazine

As a birdwatcher traveling in Guyana, one bird of great interest and fascination–a must-see for many–is a living dinosaur in the form of a pheasant-like bird: Guyana’s National Bird, the Hoatzin (Opisthocomus hoazin). The fascination with this species goes beyond its striking appearance, with its spiky mohawk-style crest, neon blue facial skin, and bright red eyes.

A Living Dinosaur
This characterization of the Hoatzin is well deserved–not only due to its genetics as the only living species in the genus Opisthocomus (the sole living genus in the family Opisthocomidae, within the order Opisthocomiformes)–but also because of its unusual digestive process, which resembles that of cows and primates.

Even more remarkable are the claws on the wings of its chicks, which have led to comparisons with the fossil bird Archaeopteryx. Fossil evidence suggests that Hoatzins may have existed as far back as 36 million years ago, during the Eocene Epoch.

Although it has been linked to many families since its first scientific description in 1776, its unique features have led to its recognition today as a family and order of its own.

This prehistoric-looking, pheasant-like bird, which grows to about 65 cm (26 inches), is known to all Guyanese as the Canje Pheasant. It was first discovered along the Canje River in Berbice and is still commonly seen there. Locally, it is also called Stinking Hannah or Stink Bird, names that refer to its notorious odor, produced by the fermentation process in its stomach.

While the Hoatzin inhabits swamps and riparian forests (alongside rivers) across the Amazon, Orinoco deltas, and other freshwater systems of South America, the best and easiest place to enjoy this bird is the coastal riparian forest of the Mahaica watershed. Here, it can be seen in the early morning, spreading its wings to dry off after spending the night exposed to dew. Their stick nests are built directly over the water among swamp aroids (locally called Mocco-Mocco), which also form a large part of their diet. Although once thought to feed only on these leaves, Hoatzins have been recorded eating around 50 botanical species across their range, showing impressive adaptability.

Dive or Die!
Building nests along riverbanks is not just about being close to food. Hoatzin chicks are often preyed upon by hawks, kites, other raptors, and even boas. To escape, the chicks dive into the water and then climb back up to the nest using the claws on their wings once the danger has passed. These claws are considered a remnant of the Hoatzin’s evolutionary link to Archaeopteryx.

As a foliovore (an animal that eats primarily leaves, with some fruit and flowers), but lacking teeth to chew cud, the Hoatzin is the smallest known animal with foregut fermentation. It uses muscular pressure and the abrasion of the crop’s inner lining (ridged like rows of corn) to grind food, enabling bacterial fermentation. This process produces methane, expelled by burping, which gives the bird its familiar odor.

The best time to view the Hoatzin is at dawn, when colonies emerge after a night in the dew to warm and dry their feathers in the rising sun. This leads to stunning displays of extended wings, fanned tails, and short, clumsy flights from branch to branch as individuals vie for the best perches.

How to See This Amazing Creature
To enjoy this spectacle, depart early from Georgetown around 4:30 a.m. An 80-minute drive will take you to a dock, where a boat along the Mahaica River provides front-row seats to this avian wonder. Along the way, numerous other species can be spotted, including Guiana Shield endemics such as the Blood-colored Woodpecker (Veniliornis sanguineus) and the White-bellied Piculet (Picumnus spilogaster), as well as Long-winged Harrier (Circus buffoni), Sungrebe (Heliornis fulica), Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax), Little Cuckoo (Coccycua minuta), and Pale-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis albescens), among others.

Mammals frequently encountered include the Guianan Red Howler Monkey (Alouatta macconnelli), the Wedge-capped Capuchin (Cebus olivaceus), and the Giant River Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis).

Come and share in the delight of this extraordinary gem of the avian world.